The Quiet Side of the French Riviera: Villages and Hidden Bistros

The French Riviera conjures images of mega-yachts in Monaco and celebrity-packed beaches in Saint-Tropez. But just minutes from the glittering coastline lies a completely different world — one of medieval hilltop villages, fragrant lavender fields, and family-run bistros where the menu changes with whatever arrived at the market that morning.

Start in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a walled medieval village where narrow cobblestone alleys wind past artist studios and hidden courtyards filled with jasmine. The Maeght Foundation, tucked among pine trees just outside the village walls, houses one of Europe’s finest collections of modern art in a setting that feels more like a private garden than a museum. From there, drive the winding roads to Èze — a dramatic eagle’s nest village perched 400 meters above the sea with views stretching all the way to Corsica on a clear day.

For lunch, skip the coastal restaurants and head inland to Mougins, a tiny village that once attracted Picasso and has quietly become one of the most concentrated fine-dining destinations in France. End your evening in Antibes, where the old town’s Provençal market hall transforms into a lively gathering spot at sunset — locals sharing rosé and socca, a crispy chickpea flatbread you won’t find anywhere outside this coastline. The Riviera’s true charm has never been on the beach — it’s always been in the hills above it.